My best mate invited me as her guest (she picked up the entire tab) to tag along on a five-day holiday to Mexico. She is a successful English actress working on a TV series in the States, and I am her loyal friend of two decades. I instantly jumped like a hurdler at a chance to get out of Dodge; Dodge meaning L.A. So I broke out the old, tattered passport and felt like a jet setter, even if it's just for a few fleeting days.
We researched various destinations in Mexico. Did we want the Pacific or the Caribbean? Inland or by the sea? Touristy or remote? We wanted a close destination and didn't want to waste too much time in the air. So, we chose Zihuatanejo. It has such a sexy Latin Rico Suave sound to it, which instantly reminds me of the movie Shawshank Redemption. Tim Robbins’ character, Andy Dufresne, is sentenced to prison for life for a murder he didn't commit, and brilliantly escapes to Zihuatanejo. Who wouldn't want to escape to that little piece of paradise? Cut to, sipping a chilled Corona and hanging out with Andy on his makeshift boat.
Anyway, back to the trip. We checked into a beautiful beachfront hotel called The Viceroy Zihuatanejo. It's one of those high-end boutique chains. I'd like to be chained up to this place for life. In the morning, I hear faint sounds of somebody's footsteps outside my villa. I like the sound of that. My villa. Anyway, there is fresh-brewed coffee, warm mini croissants, fresh papaya, and a revised copy of the New York Times delivered promptly on our private terrace.
After a leisurely breakfast, we saunter to the beach, secure our lounge chairs by throwing our reading material on them. My book about the Holocaust is dark and harrowing. Not exactly what you want to read on a beach getaway. The sea is tranquil and thankfully warm. It's called Playa La Ropa, the dress beach. Kind of catchy, no?! It's a short stretch. You can stroll from one end to the other in about 35 minutes.
One late afternoon, we noticed a large group gathered around a wooden box by the sea. Inside were literally hundreds of tiny sea turtles trying to climb out. They were so precious and helpless. How on earth could somebody order them in a soup and just pop one of those little suckers in their mouth? The staff informed us that they were releasing them to the sea at dusk...I was more than happy to help. I suddenly felt like I was filming an episode for National Geographic. My ten seconds of fame.
Lots of guests, mostly kids, were excited to volunteer. Not to mention the hungry seagulls circling above waiting for an edible tapas snack. Sadly, only a small percentage of the baby turtles make it to sea. We all cheered and encouraged them as the waves washed them away. I got teary-eyed; as I looked around I noticed I wasn't the only one wiping their eyes. I hope the ones that make it have a long happy life. Find a proper mate, and come back to the same beach to lay and bury their eggs.
The five days whisked by, and by the end of the trip, no Andy sightings. What a shame. I was secretly hoping I would have caught a glimpse of him, tanned and shirtless, offering me a ride on his yacht, where we would kiss passionately and laugh like old friends. Instead, I am happily sunburned and refreshed from all the nothingness I did in Zihua.
Tip Sheet:
Activities: Swim, snorkel, parasail, surf in Troncones, rent a boat to nearby Playa Las Gatas. Eat, people watch, sunbathe, catch up on your reading, get a massage at the hotel spa or by the local women on the beach for half the cost, and of course, take a little siesta under the palapas.
Most popular break: Playa Linda, a 10 min bus ride( yes, the buses allow boards!)
Or, 20 miles north of Zihua, there is a small gathering of surf spots known as Ondas Hermosas. (translation: beautiful waves).
Secret Local Surf: "El Rancho"- ask a surfer who knows the area.
Grub: The hotel food is incredibly delicious and Ai Carumba!!!! Muy caro!!!. On a budget, then take a $5.00 cab to town.
Local Grub: La Gula- hubby-and-wife duo. Tricky to find. Slow food, regional cuisine.
Upscale: Kau-Kan- overlooking Madera Beach. Sexy, great roof deck.
Booze: The hotel's tequila bar.. Over 135 kinds of tequila. I honestly know of two Cuervo Gold and the one with the worm in it. I can never remember the name five shots later. You will be perfecting the salsa back to your room with hopefully someone named Jorge. Jorge or no Jorge, you will be too slammed to remember. Best to sleep it off alone.
Shopping: Calle 5 de Mayo in downtown Zihua- For handcrafted knick-knacks, pottery, sterling silver jewelry and my personal favorite- a mesh Frida Kahlo tote bag, perfect for the Farmer's Market and to carry all beach accessories.
Single Scene in Zihua:
If you want to grab a bite and practice your salsa dancing,then head over to Bandidos. But if you want to swap your flip flops for some stilettos, then jump in a cab and head over to Christines, situated at the Krystal Hotel in Ixtapa. The crowd in Zihua is mostly honeymooners, couples on their first romantic holiday, families with their kids, grandparents, and every other member of their extended families, and free-spirited women. Read below.
Alternative overnight getaway: Minutes away from the airport.... Go to Playa Blanca. Nothing there, except for you and ocean. Ditch your iPod and get lost in the sounds of the sea. Stop at one of the hand crafted kiosks and down a cold local beer. The sanitary state of the kitchen may make you feel a bit queasy, so turn your head and dive into a home-cooked meal.... Isn't that what the tequila is for?
ZZZ"s: Although not the ideal "single" sleep spot. My pick is Hotel Las Palmas on Playa Blanca.
Go alone, with a group of close friends, or a new lover. I pick the latter. The rooms are stylish and airy.
Checklist at the Las Palmas Hotel:
1. 9 miles of white sandy beach
2. Quiet, private and blissfully relaxing
3. Best chilaquiles
4. I can't think of a four
Interesting Fact: Zihuatanejo means 'the place of women.' Hundreds of years ago, before the European boot stepped onto Mexican shores, a Tarascan leader named Caltzontzin built a safe and quaint harbor here to protect his people's women so they could swim safely in the sea. It's refreshing to see chivalry is not passé. Wish he were around today.
Travel Faux Pas: Under no conditions is it acceptable to wade in the pool with your cocktail in tow.
¿Dónde está el bus?
